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Steel sports Rolex watches aren＊t my bag and seeing them for sale wouldn＊t phase me in the least.
007’s Seamaster 300M came a long way since 1995 (the watch itself was introduced in 1993). From a no-nonsense diver’s watch in stainless steel with 300 meters of water resistance and an ETA2892-A2 based automatic movement or quartz movement, to a modern 42mm titanium watch with a mesh bracelet with a Master Chronometer certified movement. Side-by-side, these watches are clearly related, and yet have a very different appeal.
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The watch was released together with the also-stunning rectangular “mosaic” dials in gray and Bordeaux. But it’s the minimalist black-and-gold Tank Louis Cartier that I feel represents Cartier in its purest form. The first reason is the fact that the minimalist approach puts the ultimate focus on the brilliant shape of the case. Cartier equipped the watch with its “Large” case that still measures a modest 25.5mm × 33.7mm. At 6.6mm thick, it is a very easy-to-wear watch that nevertheless has plenty of wrist presence. I love seeing that iconic rolex swiss replica case executed in gold, as it perfectly accentuates the graceful design of the Tank.
At 6 o’clock is the chronograph, but unlike most chronographs, this one uses only one subdial. There are three concentric hands on the chronograph subdial. A chronograph hour, minute and seconds hand. If you look at the central timekeeping hands you will notice there is not a seconds hand. That is because you have to read the seconds off the small seconds display that is part of the chronograph subdial.
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The dial is made of sapphire and features rose gold hour marks, subdial borders and a border that appears to ""float"" above the movement. The black translucent rings around the edges of the dials and subdials increase the legibility of the chronograph and minute track. The custom-made minute and hour hands were made from solid rose gold by Artisans of Geneve. I find their ""split shape"" more pleasing to the eye than a standard Daytona handset. Both the sub-dials and central second hand with orange tip are made from solid rose gold. The subdial hands have a white tip and counterbalance.
We also already saw it happening with the recent Spirit Zulu Time, which had a movement custom-made exclusively for Longines. It really seems that the brand is stepping up its game. Former brand CEO Walter von K?nel once told me during an interview that Longines will never produce in-house movement again. But under the leadership of the new (since 2020) CEO Matthias Breschan, Longines is clearly going in a direction where it can claim to have its own movements.
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